PINSAL FALLS

THIS BLOG post about my trip to Pinsal Falls has been a long time coming. My first and only visit to the tallest, and arguably most beautiful, waterfall in the Ilocos region dates back to December 2011. For years, a handful of snapshots from that trip sat on my Facebook Timeline, quietly gathering likes and comments. However, after recent trips to Cambugahay Falls in Lazi, Siquijor early this month, and Balite Falls in Amadeo, Cavite in April last year, I found myself instinctively comparing them all.

The verdict comes easily: Pinsal Falls reigns supreme. It stands apart not just for its sheer scale, but for its rugged, rocky landscape, the thrilling challenges it presents, its unique geological features, and its remarkable accessibility (lying just a 30-minute drive from the town proper). With summer just around the corner, if you are looking for the perfect getaway for your family or barkada, Pinsal Falls is an exceptional choice. Having experienced it firsthand, I can promise that a summer excursion here offers a perfect blend of climbing, picnicking, swimming, and exploration.

The Gateway to the Falls

Pinsal Falls is nestled in Baballasioan, one of the easternmost barangays of Sta. Maria, Ilocos Sur, bordering the province of Abra. In fact, travelers from Pilar, Abra frequently use the mountain trails above the falls as a shortcut to the Sta. Maria town proper. Don’t be surprised if you reach the summit and cross paths with locals trekking upstream with bundles or backpacks.

The town of Sta. Maria itself is widely celebrated as the home of the La Asuncion de la Nuestra Señora Church, a UNESCO World Heritage site recognized for its magnificent Baroque architecture. Perched strategically on a hill overlooking the town plaza, it is reachable via a dramatic grand stairway of 83 cobblestone steps. I spent my freshman year of high school at a private academy right at the foot of that hill. Growing up in the adjacent town of Narvacan, my friends and I would regularly travel to Sta. Maria to attend Mass or visit relatives. Yet, despite it being the town’s premier tourist drawing card next to the church, I had never actually been to Pinsal Falls back then. The locals also take great pride in the fact that the legendary "King of Philippine Movies," Fernando Poe Jr., chose this breathtaking site as a location for his iconic film, Ang Panday.

A Journey of Healing and Grandeur

I finally made it to the falls in 2011—a poignant year for me, marked by the passing of my wife. Having been granted a rare two-week leave from my publishing job in Quezon City, my mother’s younger brother, Uncle Boni, was determined to help me find solace and make the most of my time back home. Prompted by his daughter, who had visited the site just days prior, we set out for Baballasioan on the morning of December 28, with my uncle driving his SUV and my cousin serving as our guide.

It took us roughly 40 minutes from the poblacion to reach the end of the concrete road. From this drop-off point, a postcard-perfect view immediately unfolded: crystal-clear water plunging from a height of approximately 25 meters into a narrow gorge below. The weather was perfect—pleasantly warm without being windy. According to local guides, the ideal window to visit is between October and December.

We set up our picnic basket near the base of the falls, shielded by a massive rock wall and safely away from the heavy mist. At the bottom, the cascade feeds into two large natural catch basins, whose deep waters are ideal for swimming and diving. For those who prefer to stay out of the deep end, the upper tiers of the rock formation offer a gentler alternative. My cousin mentioned that a hidden cave exists beneath the falls, though reaching it requires diving underwater.

Exploring the Summit

My brother, my two sons, some nephews, and I began a slow ascent, navigating the shallow waters and slippery stones of the catch basin toward the main rock face. The climb isn't overly strenuous, thanks to man-made railings and steps carved directly into the stone. Meanwhile, the younger members of our group took a natural dirt trail up the hillside to reach the crest.

At the summit, you are rewarded with smaller, terraced cascades and pristine natural pools—perfect for a refreshing dip or a cool shower under the gentle streams. It is no wonder this spot, with its majestic grandeur and untouched beauty, is a sanctuary for photography enthusiasts. My sister even chose this backdrop for a portion of her pre-wedding photoshoot last year.

Further up, the landscape opens into a wide trail tracing the upstream water source. It is a stark, beautiful expanse of sun-bleached white riverstones, punctuated by rock formations and scattered pools of varying sizes. The path is flanked on both sides by hillsides draped in a lush canopy of mature trees, offering an enticing playground for rock climbers seeking a true wilderness experience.

Mythology and Reflection

You cannot mention Pinsal Falls without evoking the local folklore immortalized by the late Ilocano writer Godofredo S. Reyes: the tale of the giant couple Angalo and Aran. The largest, footprint-shaped natural pool atop the falls is widely believed to be the impression left by Angalo. Legend has it that the giant stepped heavily onto the summit of Pinsal while desperately searching for his missing wife, the giantess Aran.

Though I knew the falls was a place meant for adventure rather than sorrow, a wave of grief caught me off guard. I suddenly thought of my wife and felt a deep pang of sadness that she wasn't there to share the moment. She would have loved exploring the terrain, listening to the ancient myths, and wading in the rooftop pools. Standing there, I felt a strange kinship with the giant Angalo, searching for a wife who was no longer there.

Even so, the opportunity to witness such raw natural beauty so close to my hometown was something to be cherished. Every moment filled with awe and adventure deserves to be preserved forever in my digital camera files.

As of now, the area remains wonderfully untouched by commercial developments, though rumors persist about potential downstream damming projects that could alter this natural wonder forever. If you want to witness Pinsal Falls in its pristine, unaltered glory, now is the time to go.

view from the top

 steps carved out 

                                                                                                               of the rock

 the main falls

the river upstream