THE LAST VISITA IGLESIA

MY FAMILY shared only one Visita Iglesia—a Holy Week tradition that literally translates to "church visit". It was our very first time participating together, and it would ultimately be the last one we would ever have as a complete family. Before this, I had never taken part in this Catholic tradition of visiting multiple churches during the Lenten season.

It was Holy Thursday of 2010. I distinctly remember my wife’s palpable excitement. She had rarely participated in this religious event since her younger years, even though she had longed to do it every single year. Now, she was overjoyed that she was finally doing it alongside her own family.

The timing seemed perfect for us. A year earlier, we had enjoyed a wonderful vacation in Ilocos Sur for the Lenten break. We had so much fun attending family reunions, swimming, and picnicking at the beach. We had even traveled as far north as Bangui to see the giant windmills, and Pagudpud in Ilocos Norte. Because of those fond memories, when my wife suggested this religious activity to our children, she didn't need to use any convincing charm. My kids were genuinely curious to see how this summer ritual was carried out.

My wife explained to them the spiritual significance of this "journey"—a pilgrimage marked by prayer, sharing, quiet reflection, and fasting, which traditionally takes place on Holy Thursday. The custom involves visiting seven different churches, praying at two Stations of the Cross per visit (though some observers choose to visit fourteen churches instead). My wife deeply hoped that this inaugural Visita Iglesia would provide a beautiful opportunity for our family to quietly enjoy a mini-tour while simultaneously fulfilling a sacred religious duty. She even suggested making it an annual family tradition.

Looking back, I know my wife desired this pilgrimage so intensely because of her health. She was battling stage 2 breast cancer, a diagnosis she chose to hide from our children and her friends. She chose silence because she believed with endless hope and profound faith that the Lord would heal her. She felt a deep, spiritual calling to visit various miraculous churches to pray for her recovery, and she wanted her family standing by her side, praying with her.

I took charge of planning the route. Days before Holy Thursday, I busied myself searching the internet for the seven churches we would visit (as this was my first time, I had to start from scratch). I carefully calculated the distances between the parishes and the travel times required to move from one to the next, even consulting a few friends for advice. Our son, Dudoy, was particularly excited to see the historical, Spanish-era churches included in our itinerary. I promised him and his siblings that I would provide some historical and cultural background at each stop.

Initially, we planned to hire a van. Another family had agreed to join us and split the rental cost, but the driver we approached days in advance was unavailable on Holy Thursday. In the end, it was just our family that set out that morning.

Because my wife had lived with her family in one of the neighborhoods around Old Manila, our destination was comforting and familiar to her. It was a typical, scorching summer day. Before leaving Bulacan, we made sure we were armed with comfortable clothes, sunglasses, umbrellas, hats, plenty of drinking water, and hand towels.

1st Stop: Binondo Church

This church stands majestically in the heart of Manila’s Chinatown within the Binondo District. Formally named the Minor Basilica of San Lorenzo Ruiz, it honors the first Filipino saint, who lived and grew up in this neighborhood. I frequently pass by this structure whenever I head to Divisoria to hunt for affordable goods or to visit relatives in Tondo, but this was my first time ever stepping inside its doors.

2nd Stop: Manila Cathedral

The Cathedral, or the Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, is located inside the historic walled city of Intramuros. Serving as the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Manila, its imposing facade and massive dome are clearly visible even from a distance. It offers a grandiose, timeless view to anyone standing outside.

3rd Stop: San Agustin Church

San Agustin Church (Immaculate Conception Parish) is one of the oldest stone churches still standing in the Philippines. Situated just a short walking distance from the Cathedral, this magnificent UNESCO World Heritage Site feels alive with centuries of history.

  

4th Stop: St. Jude Archdiocesan Shrine

This church is dedicated to Saint Jude Thaddeus. As a cousin and apostle of Jesus Christ, Saint Jude is widely revered as the patron saint of desperate cases and hopeless causes. Consequently, a large number of devotees flock to the shrine every Thursday—especially students seeking spiritual strength before final exams or crucial professional board examinations.

5th Stop: San Miguel Church

This is the National Shrine of St. Michael and the Archangels. It was our first time visiting, and the kids were thrilled by the realization that they were walking through the historic grounds of Malacañang. Inside, the altar features a striking depiction of the crucifixion, flanked by individual statues of the seven archangels mounted on separate pillars. There is also a massive, 12-foot bronze statue of St. Michael triumphantly slaying a serpent, the symbol of Lucifer.

6th Stop: San Sebastian Church

Though my wife was born and raised in Malate, Manila, it was strangely ironic that she had never stepped inside the Basilica Minore de San Sebastian before this day. She and the children were completely captivated by this historic church, which is world-renowned for its unique, all-steel architectural design and structure. The soaring ceiling inside was the highest I had ever seen in my life.   

7th Stop: Quiapo Church

The Minor Basilica of the Black Nazarene (Quiapo Church) was our natural final stop due to its close proximity to San Sebastian. It was a church I passed daily on my commute to school, work, or home, yet I had only ever attended Mass there once or twice with my wife during the early years of our marriage. To me, the church and its surrounding streets always felt overwhelmingly crowded, operating as a bustling center of commerce for everyday city folks.

Of the seven churches we visited, this final stop proved to be the most challenging to complete. The square was packed with a vast multitude of people also performing their Visita. By the time we made it through, my wife and the children were thoroughly exhausted and hungry.

THE FOLLOWING year, in April 2011, we were unable to go on our planned Visita Iglesia due to my wife's rapidly worsening condition. In the months that followed, we managed instead to make a smaller pilgrimage to the Shrine of the Divine Mercy in our local area of Marilao, Bulacan.

That would be the final church we ever visited together. Our trip there in July of that same year was our very last outing as one complete family. Later that month, we rushed her to the hospital due to sudden complications from her illness, and she passed away two weeks later.